Hello all,
Nothing really interesting to report, I have spent the last couple weeks working and chillin in La Paz and getting lazy. I just wanted to send a quick note to say Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to everyone.
Life in La Paz is great. We are heading off to Argentina for the holidays, so I should have some good stories soon. At work we are still running around looking for money to start our telecommunications network. Also, we have been fortunate to have been awarded a couple grants (youth training program and a geographic information database). We are also putting together additional development grant applications for future projects.
Other than that not much to say. In the meantime, here are some pics of my life. Well, at least the home and office to give people who are interested an idea of where I live and work. I took some crappy shots this time, so some are blurry. Like I said, I got lazy the last couple weeks but I think that it still gets the point across.
http://www.shutterfly.com/osi.jsp?i=67b0de21b30de13ec44b
Thanks to all who sent christmas cards to Bolivia. Mail is such a nice surprise.
Hope to see you all in 2003,
Nick
Friday, December 20, 2002
Monday, December 02, 2002
In Honor of Pedro
my second tour of the salar and the lagunas in the extreme southern altiplano of bolivia was an enormous success. come'on guinness, large ben, el boliviano, and me - johnny nascar (see the shades) began the journey with some beers and dinner at a local pub tuesday night. getting an early start at 1am wednesday morning, we made tracks for uyuni - 9 hours away with a live turkey, 128 cds and a roof full of gear.
foreshadowing the journey ahead, we slammed into some enormous potholes within an hour of leaving and nearly lost control. traversing the southern altiplano requires extreme patience, unbridled enthusiasm, four wheel drive and a host of repair items. luckily we had 3 of the 4.
beginning the 2500 kilometer trek with an all nighter, we stumbled bleary eyed into uyuni with a flat tire, no map and raging hunger... after replenishing, repairing and receiving a donated map - we ventured into the vast salt lake known as the salar of uyuni with only a vague idea of where we were headed (west then south then north then east).
after much serious debate, we arrived at isla de pescado and found "one of the top 10 campsites ever." eating well by a camp fire and sleeping underneath a canopy of bright stars, the road trip was off to a tremendous start.
racing south across the flats with brian and oliver surfing/filming on the roof, pedro (the turkey) became a bit restless... thanksgiving morning seemed to have aroused a survival instinct as he strutted around chest and feathers out... gaining confidence he attacked your poor story teller and his companions - including a two footed drop kick to el boliviano.
passing from salt flat to desert we made our way to our second camp site a few hundred meters off the main road where the howling wind was reduced to a growl - and the preparations for thanksgiving commenced. obeying advice... three of us coordinated to force wine down pedro´s throat... apparently if you dont get em drunk they get all tense and the meat is tough.
after allowing him the proper amount of time to enjoy his drunkeness, we commenced a ceremony to pachamama (mother earth). coca leaves, beer and some sticks where disbursed in a circle and the guillatine was prepared. pedro went somewhat peacefully... although the saying 'like a chicken with his head cut off' now has new meaning.
while the pavo tasted pretty horrible, the killing, cleaning and cooking process was an experience i wont forget.
finding our way back to the road in the morning.... Earl (the land cruiser) began to protest the monotonous journey across rocks and dirt. unsure of the problem and mechanically deficient, the four gringos pressed some tour companies for advice.
with our gas filter on backwards it was clear we were ill prepared for our trip. the chaffeurs broke out their spare parts and went to work. walter (friend of the map donator) came to the rescue and we managed to get the part we needed for 4 bucks. then Earl reacted by refusing to start, part of the door falling off and the rear door refusing to close.
despite the erratic and often death defying driving skills of Come'on Guinness (including getting us stuck in a river), Earl pressed on and we completed the circuit by hitting the lagunas, a hot spring (not pictured), and some geysers (not pictured).
As you can see in the following pictures, we saw an amazing variety of landscapes, wildlife and weather. arriving back in uyuni at 8pm - we dove into our first served meal since departing 3 days earlier. a pizza buffett created by our friend the map donator - happy to see we had maded it back safely.
http://www.shutterfly.com/osi.jsp?i=67b0de21b30c4e562590
until the next adventure,
nick
fyi the camera ran out about midway but this will give you the basic idea.
foreshadowing the journey ahead, we slammed into some enormous potholes within an hour of leaving and nearly lost control. traversing the southern altiplano requires extreme patience, unbridled enthusiasm, four wheel drive and a host of repair items. luckily we had 3 of the 4.
beginning the 2500 kilometer trek with an all nighter, we stumbled bleary eyed into uyuni with a flat tire, no map and raging hunger... after replenishing, repairing and receiving a donated map - we ventured into the vast salt lake known as the salar of uyuni with only a vague idea of where we were headed (west then south then north then east).
after much serious debate, we arrived at isla de pescado and found "one of the top 10 campsites ever." eating well by a camp fire and sleeping underneath a canopy of bright stars, the road trip was off to a tremendous start.
racing south across the flats with brian and oliver surfing/filming on the roof, pedro (the turkey) became a bit restless... thanksgiving morning seemed to have aroused a survival instinct as he strutted around chest and feathers out... gaining confidence he attacked your poor story teller and his companions - including a two footed drop kick to el boliviano.
passing from salt flat to desert we made our way to our second camp site a few hundred meters off the main road where the howling wind was reduced to a growl - and the preparations for thanksgiving commenced. obeying advice... three of us coordinated to force wine down pedro´s throat... apparently if you dont get em drunk they get all tense and the meat is tough.
after allowing him the proper amount of time to enjoy his drunkeness, we commenced a ceremony to pachamama (mother earth). coca leaves, beer and some sticks where disbursed in a circle and the guillatine was prepared. pedro went somewhat peacefully... although the saying 'like a chicken with his head cut off' now has new meaning.
while the pavo tasted pretty horrible, the killing, cleaning and cooking process was an experience i wont forget.
finding our way back to the road in the morning.... Earl (the land cruiser) began to protest the monotonous journey across rocks and dirt. unsure of the problem and mechanically deficient, the four gringos pressed some tour companies for advice.
with our gas filter on backwards it was clear we were ill prepared for our trip. the chaffeurs broke out their spare parts and went to work. walter (friend of the map donator) came to the rescue and we managed to get the part we needed for 4 bucks. then Earl reacted by refusing to start, part of the door falling off and the rear door refusing to close.
despite the erratic and often death defying driving skills of Come'on Guinness (including getting us stuck in a river), Earl pressed on and we completed the circuit by hitting the lagunas, a hot spring (not pictured), and some geysers (not pictured).
As you can see in the following pictures, we saw an amazing variety of landscapes, wildlife and weather. arriving back in uyuni at 8pm - we dove into our first served meal since departing 3 days earlier. a pizza buffett created by our friend the map donator - happy to see we had maded it back safely.
http://www.shutterfly.com/osi.jsp?i=67b0de21b30c4e562590
until the next adventure,
nick
fyi the camera ran out about midway but this will give you the basic idea.
Tuesday, November 26, 2002
Happy Thanksgiving!!!
4 Gringos, a couple of wild turkeys, a jeep with an extra tank of gas,
2 chocolate pecan pies, bongo drums, a compass, a frisbee, a hackysack, a
map of Bolivia and plenty of thanksgivin fixins. Its turkey time! We are
off to the salt flats and lagunas of southwestern Bolivia to celebrate that
good old American holiday in the midst of one of the world's most
spectacular places. Details to follow on the flip side.....
2 chocolate pecan pies, bongo drums, a compass, a frisbee, a hackysack, a
map of Bolivia and plenty of thanksgivin fixins. Its turkey time! We are
off to the salt flats and lagunas of southwestern Bolivia to celebrate that
good old American holiday in the midst of one of the world's most
spectacular places. Details to follow on the flip side.....
Tuesday, November 19, 2002
Back in Bolivia
As many of you may or may not know, I returned to Bolivia last week to work on the project I was involved in last spring (www.desatel.net). After five long months in the USA, it is refreshing to be back. For this visit I brought my cameras along and will limit the words I send and increase drastically the pictures - I am sure everyone will greatly appreciate this.
Anyways, with me outta the way they have had some successes over the summer. Currently, we are finishing up the development of an infrastructure database which will aid in determing future development priorities in Bolivia (including in the telecom area - which is nice for us). Also, we are finalizing the funding arrangements for a 3 year project to train 600 youths in technology. This will help stimulate demand for our services and train future employees for our network. Speaking of our network, we are still trying to line up funding to get it started. This will be the bulk of my job.
But first things first - vacation. Upon my arrival, I headed for a long weekend in a sleepy town called Coroico which rests on the edge of the amazon in a region known as the Yungas (cloud forests). To get there you must traverse "the most dangerous road in the world" (according to somebody - don´t ask me it´s in all the books). What better way to travel then by bike when dropping from a peak of 4,700 meters to the valley floor at 1,400 meters on a road that spans no more than 3 meters in parts. A mix of mud, rock, waterfalls, trucks, buses and grave stones, the road winds down the side of cliff edges with sheer drops upward of 1000 meters. It was just awesome.
check it out:
http://www.shutterfly.com/osi.jsp?i=67b0de21b30f2c19453a
Anyways, with me outta the way they have had some successes over the summer. Currently, we are finishing up the development of an infrastructure database which will aid in determing future development priorities in Bolivia (including in the telecom area - which is nice for us). Also, we are finalizing the funding arrangements for a 3 year project to train 600 youths in technology. This will help stimulate demand for our services and train future employees for our network. Speaking of our network, we are still trying to line up funding to get it started. This will be the bulk of my job.
But first things first - vacation. Upon my arrival, I headed for a long weekend in a sleepy town called Coroico which rests on the edge of the amazon in a region known as the Yungas (cloud forests). To get there you must traverse "the most dangerous road in the world" (according to somebody - don´t ask me it´s in all the books). What better way to travel then by bike when dropping from a peak of 4,700 meters to the valley floor at 1,400 meters on a road that spans no more than 3 meters in parts. A mix of mud, rock, waterfalls, trucks, buses and grave stones, the road winds down the side of cliff edges with sheer drops upward of 1000 meters. It was just awesome.
check it out:
http://www.shutterfly.com/osi.jsp?i=67b0de21b30f2c19453a
Saturday, June 01, 2002
Final Email from LP
After 5 months in La Paz, its time to depart with fond memories and sore muscles. This one is long - no life lessons or anything - just a quote and a story i want to remember in a few years and maybe some of you will enjoy.
In the last couple weeks, I have been tying up loose ends and knocking out a couple final experiences.
The most exciting of which are in the pictures below. The weekend before last I had the pleasure of entertaining Kayvan and a couple from San Francisco (Tom and Shannon). Kayvan, Oliver and I made the most of the weekend by hitting a glacier at the base of Huayna Potosi for a mountaineering type course. We spent the day in an amazing setting playing around with crampons, ice axes and running around on ice walls with our guide Ivan. Finished the day on a 20 meter 80-90 degree vertical wall. It was a huge rush. Especially after starting the day just learning to walk and trying out waddle/squat manuevers. The course was a practice run for the real deal... which will take up the bulk of this email.
After what we considered careful consideration, Oliver and I decided to for-go hiring a guide and just rent gear and do the one day hike with Brian (experienced climber in Bolivia for four years). We were under the impression Brian was not only familiar with the equipment and well equiped but also experienced at Hyuana. On two of three accounts we were wrong - as we would find out.
Anyways, after a couple hours of sleep Wednesday night - Oliver, Brian, Sean and I pulled ourselves out of our cozy beds at 1am for the hour drive to Huayna Potosi. By 3am we were on the mountain and heading for the summit. Instead of doing the climb in 2 days (normal) - Brian convinced us that leaving in the middle of the night and knocking it out in one day was reasonable.
As I said we began the climb at 3am. It was dark and cold but amazing to be on the snow and beginning something I had been dreaming about since seeing the first snow-capped peaks of Bolivia in the Cordilla Real on the bus ride in from Peru (January). By 7am the sun was out and we were climbing our first face. It was about a 15 or 20 meter wall. Pretty easy - with many footholes to help out. However, due to some lack of communication - I somehow ended up free climbing half the face while a real guide yelled at Brian at the top (for our lack of safety standards / basic intelligence). This would be the first of several heated moments.
In any case - we were well on our way at this point having begun at about 15,500 feet and heading for 20,000 (actually 19,970 - but 20k looks cooler so let me run with it). After the confrontation with the guide - we roped together and began walk single file about 5 meters apart on a line (safety for hidden crevaces). Sean was draggin ass a bit so things slowed down at this point. We made the base of the summit a little later than planned (about 10am). It is suggested to hit the top of the summit no later than 10am because the sun starts to melt the snow and increases avalanche risk and reduces ability for spikes, stakes, screws, axes to hold in the softening walls.
However, given our enthusiasm and over-confidence (and the fact that the summit was covered in fog so we didnt no what we were getting into) we all decided to head up. The four of us on one rope with 3 stakes and 3 screws were fired up. Sean's energy back at this point.
Brian went first placing stakes, Oliver, me and Sean followed in that order. The climb began at about 50-60 degrees and was fairly simple. However, after about 30 minutes the top was nowhere in site and the wall was now very steep possibly 75 degrees and snow/ice was getting soft. Brian had already placed our only three stakes before the midway point of the wall and screws were now useless.
For the next 15 minutes I became acutely aware that my energy level was becoming very low and we had a long way yet to go and this was now an unsecured free climb. The four of us grew very quiet. The final 15 minutes were pure hell. No choice to go up - no safety - and no energy left. It was slow going and if any of the four of us slipped everyone would have fallen straight to the bottom.
At this point we could see the rounding of the top and it was clear we had embarked on a 100 meter wall without adequate equipment and 7 hours after we had begun the climb. No one was talking - everyone was just focused on getting to the summit.
With about 5 meters left - Brian was on the summit, Oliver was very close and I was dying. I laid against my ax for about 3 minutes realizing that there was nowhere to go but up - i had hit the physical wall. With some serious yelling from Oliver and the others - I looked up one last time. I basically ran the last 5 mtrs as my left boot fell off my foot (not all the way off - thank god) and I dove onto the summit. We were all spent and in sheer joy. We were perched on the top of Huayna Potosi on a narrow snowy ledge (about 10 feet across) and sheer cliffs of ice and snow on either side with an indescribable view of Bolivia, Lake Titicaca, Peru, etc.
Safely atop the summit I was immobile for several minutes while Sean put my boot back on. The climb had been an amazing experience. Although free climbing the summit with no security was a stupid/dangerous idea. And using all your energy going up is the first rule of climbing not to break because you have got to have some for the climb back down.
The four of us were perched on top of the world - feeling an intense rush - when Brian brought us back to reality. The snow was getting softer by the minute, the stakes are in the wall near the bottom and we are all tired as shit. Basically, we are not in a good situation. Using an ice ax as a belay from the top with Oliver manning the station we began to head 100 meters straight down (Brian, Sean, me and Oliver last). Once Oliver was on the wall we were completely without security again. If anyone slipped we were all to put our axes into the wall and self secure - the rope uniting us for safety would most likely become a link to create four deaths instead of one - it was very unlikely the wall would hold any of us if someone fell - it was way too soft.
We slowly made our way down the mountain all dependent on each other to be careful and the snow to hold. It was getting warmer and softer by the minute. (btw - the stakes were no longer any use either - we found out when we got down to them) In any event, after slipping a half foot here and there and Oliver taking the highest dump I have ever heard of about 20 meters from the bottom of the cliff face at 20,000 feet - we were all safely at the base again exhausted and happy to be alive.
We still needed to descend from about 20,000 feet and it was now 11:30am and the sun was our enemy. Exhaustion was the biggest issue - as we had enough rope and stakes to be fairly secure for the descent. I did fall the final 6 feet of the last cliff face due to poor directions from Sean who guided me to a part of the face with next to a crevace but all was cool and it was kind of fun. At 5pm we made it back to the jeep after 14 hours on the mountain and at 7pm i was laid out on my couch with room service from the Ritz on the way.
So with that - I am happy to be alive and ready to go home!
That's it,
NJG
With nothing more original to say - and at the risk of having my boys call me a homo here are a couple of cool quotes which also help describe what I think I got out of my trip.
"When making a decision of minor importance, I have always found it advantageous to consider all the pros and cons. In vital matters, however, such as the choice of a mate or a profession, the decision should come from the unconscious, from somewhere within ourselves. In the important decisions of personal life, we should be governed, I think, by the deep inner needs of our nature."
-- Sigmund Freud
"We grow great by dreams. All big men are dreamers. They see things in the soft haze of a spring day or in the red fire of a long winter's evening. Some of us let these great dreams die, but others nourish and protect them; nurse them through bad days till they bring them to the sunshine and light which comes always to those who sincerely hope that their dreams will come true."
-- Woodrow Wilson
In the last couple weeks, I have been tying up loose ends and knocking out a couple final experiences.
The most exciting of which are in the pictures below. The weekend before last I had the pleasure of entertaining Kayvan and a couple from San Francisco (Tom and Shannon). Kayvan, Oliver and I made the most of the weekend by hitting a glacier at the base of Huayna Potosi for a mountaineering type course. We spent the day in an amazing setting playing around with crampons, ice axes and running around on ice walls with our guide Ivan. Finished the day on a 20 meter 80-90 degree vertical wall. It was a huge rush. Especially after starting the day just learning to walk and trying out waddle/squat manuevers. The course was a practice run for the real deal... which will take up the bulk of this email.
After what we considered careful consideration, Oliver and I decided to for-go hiring a guide and just rent gear and do the one day hike with Brian (experienced climber in Bolivia for four years). We were under the impression Brian was not only familiar with the equipment and well equiped but also experienced at Hyuana. On two of three accounts we were wrong - as we would find out.
Anyways, after a couple hours of sleep Wednesday night - Oliver, Brian, Sean and I pulled ourselves out of our cozy beds at 1am for the hour drive to Huayna Potosi. By 3am we were on the mountain and heading for the summit. Instead of doing the climb in 2 days (normal) - Brian convinced us that leaving in the middle of the night and knocking it out in one day was reasonable.
As I said we began the climb at 3am. It was dark and cold but amazing to be on the snow and beginning something I had been dreaming about since seeing the first snow-capped peaks of Bolivia in the Cordilla Real on the bus ride in from Peru (January). By 7am the sun was out and we were climbing our first face. It was about a 15 or 20 meter wall. Pretty easy - with many footholes to help out. However, due to some lack of communication - I somehow ended up free climbing half the face while a real guide yelled at Brian at the top (for our lack of safety standards / basic intelligence). This would be the first of several heated moments.
In any case - we were well on our way at this point having begun at about 15,500 feet and heading for 20,000 (actually 19,970 - but 20k looks cooler so let me run with it). After the confrontation with the guide - we roped together and began walk single file about 5 meters apart on a line (safety for hidden crevaces). Sean was draggin ass a bit so things slowed down at this point. We made the base of the summit a little later than planned (about 10am). It is suggested to hit the top of the summit no later than 10am because the sun starts to melt the snow and increases avalanche risk and reduces ability for spikes, stakes, screws, axes to hold in the softening walls.
However, given our enthusiasm and over-confidence (and the fact that the summit was covered in fog so we didnt no what we were getting into) we all decided to head up. The four of us on one rope with 3 stakes and 3 screws were fired up. Sean's energy back at this point.
Brian went first placing stakes, Oliver, me and Sean followed in that order. The climb began at about 50-60 degrees and was fairly simple. However, after about 30 minutes the top was nowhere in site and the wall was now very steep possibly 75 degrees and snow/ice was getting soft. Brian had already placed our only three stakes before the midway point of the wall and screws were now useless.
For the next 15 minutes I became acutely aware that my energy level was becoming very low and we had a long way yet to go and this was now an unsecured free climb. The four of us grew very quiet. The final 15 minutes were pure hell. No choice to go up - no safety - and no energy left. It was slow going and if any of the four of us slipped everyone would have fallen straight to the bottom.
At this point we could see the rounding of the top and it was clear we had embarked on a 100 meter wall without adequate equipment and 7 hours after we had begun the climb. No one was talking - everyone was just focused on getting to the summit.
With about 5 meters left - Brian was on the summit, Oliver was very close and I was dying. I laid against my ax for about 3 minutes realizing that there was nowhere to go but up - i had hit the physical wall. With some serious yelling from Oliver and the others - I looked up one last time. I basically ran the last 5 mtrs as my left boot fell off my foot (not all the way off - thank god) and I dove onto the summit. We were all spent and in sheer joy. We were perched on the top of Huayna Potosi on a narrow snowy ledge (about 10 feet across) and sheer cliffs of ice and snow on either side with an indescribable view of Bolivia, Lake Titicaca, Peru, etc.
Safely atop the summit I was immobile for several minutes while Sean put my boot back on. The climb had been an amazing experience. Although free climbing the summit with no security was a stupid/dangerous idea. And using all your energy going up is the first rule of climbing not to break because you have got to have some for the climb back down.
The four of us were perched on top of the world - feeling an intense rush - when Brian brought us back to reality. The snow was getting softer by the minute, the stakes are in the wall near the bottom and we are all tired as shit. Basically, we are not in a good situation. Using an ice ax as a belay from the top with Oliver manning the station we began to head 100 meters straight down (Brian, Sean, me and Oliver last). Once Oliver was on the wall we were completely without security again. If anyone slipped we were all to put our axes into the wall and self secure - the rope uniting us for safety would most likely become a link to create four deaths instead of one - it was very unlikely the wall would hold any of us if someone fell - it was way too soft.
We slowly made our way down the mountain all dependent on each other to be careful and the snow to hold. It was getting warmer and softer by the minute. (btw - the stakes were no longer any use either - we found out when we got down to them) In any event, after slipping a half foot here and there and Oliver taking the highest dump I have ever heard of about 20 meters from the bottom of the cliff face at 20,000 feet - we were all safely at the base again exhausted and happy to be alive.
We still needed to descend from about 20,000 feet and it was now 11:30am and the sun was our enemy. Exhaustion was the biggest issue - as we had enough rope and stakes to be fairly secure for the descent. I did fall the final 6 feet of the last cliff face due to poor directions from Sean who guided me to a part of the face with next to a crevace but all was cool and it was kind of fun. At 5pm we made it back to the jeep after 14 hours on the mountain and at 7pm i was laid out on my couch with room service from the Ritz on the way.
So with that - I am happy to be alive and ready to go home!
That's it,
NJG
With nothing more original to say - and at the risk of having my boys call me a homo here are a couple of cool quotes which also help describe what I think I got out of my trip.
"When making a decision of minor importance, I have always found it advantageous to consider all the pros and cons. In vital matters, however, such as the choice of a mate or a profession, the decision should come from the unconscious, from somewhere within ourselves. In the important decisions of personal life, we should be governed, I think, by the deep inner needs of our nature."
-- Sigmund Freud
"We grow great by dreams. All big men are dreamers. They see things in the soft haze of a spring day or in the red fire of a long winter's evening. Some of us let these great dreams die, but others nourish and protect them; nurse them through bad days till they bring them to the sunshine and light which comes always to those who sincerely hope that their dreams will come true."
-- Woodrow Wilson
Wednesday, May 15, 2002
Classic Bolivia (and Classic Goldberg)
Over the last couple of weeks emotions have been going through peaks and valleys like you read about. Going from meeting to meeting - good news followed by bad news followed by good news. The start up rollercoaster was really getting old.
However, the rollercoaster took a hilarious/interesting turn today. In typical Bolivian fashion the bid process we participated in (and lost) was declared null and void after a court battle raised by one of the other participants. Now the rural government telecenter bid is back and supposedly will be bigger than before (including more communities). This is great news, because it is exactly what I want to do. So.... here we go again - hopefully we win.
In the meantime, I also hit the lake hard (Copacabana again, Isla del Sol in the middle of Lake Titicaca and Peter's house again) which was awesome. Although the first night it was frigid cold and snowing. The following day we hiked around the island in shorts and t shirts - weather is weird this high up. The island is a taste of untainted (mostly) bolivian culture.
in other news - i continue to be a moron.
i blew up my stereo for the second time. you would not believe how confusing it is having two different power outlets (110v or 220v). you have to check everytime. i am slowly learning my lesson. i made myself feel better by getting buck in front of la paz in our public shower.
also, i went to get an extension on my tourist visa and the lady saw the previous extension and said i couldnt get another one. so i have to pay 10 b's for every day i stay past my visa expiration. i think it will end up being 15-20 days which is not a huge deal. of course i got all fired up and made a little scene at the desk. (just wanted to give the other tourists something entertaining while they waited in line.)
in my argument i also said something about how i was doing volunteer work and needed only 2 more weeks, trying to get some sympathy. bad choice. she went and got the jefe. because i said the word work - i was in big trouble. they stamped a bunch of stuff on my passport and said i would have to do all this paper work. i told em that i wasnt getting paid and the company didnt have any money and i was leaving in two weeks. so she gave me the passport back and i got out of there - feeling beaten and with everyone in line giggling at my display of Americanism.
plan for the weekend - ice climbing
16 days left in La Paz for those still planning a visit (like thats gonna happen)
btw - if anyone knows of good people to talk to in dc, chicago or san francisco working in the development world (ngos, microfinance, international institutions, etc.) i would love some connections. I am tryign to set up meetings in the states for when i get home to bounce some ideas around - not really looking for interviews just conversations.
However, the rollercoaster took a hilarious/interesting turn today. In typical Bolivian fashion the bid process we participated in (and lost) was declared null and void after a court battle raised by one of the other participants. Now the rural government telecenter bid is back and supposedly will be bigger than before (including more communities). This is great news, because it is exactly what I want to do. So.... here we go again - hopefully we win.
In the meantime, I also hit the lake hard (Copacabana again, Isla del Sol in the middle of Lake Titicaca and Peter's house again) which was awesome. Although the first night it was frigid cold and snowing. The following day we hiked around the island in shorts and t shirts - weather is weird this high up. The island is a taste of untainted (mostly) bolivian culture.
in other news - i continue to be a moron.
i blew up my stereo for the second time. you would not believe how confusing it is having two different power outlets (110v or 220v). you have to check everytime. i am slowly learning my lesson. i made myself feel better by getting buck in front of la paz in our public shower.
also, i went to get an extension on my tourist visa and the lady saw the previous extension and said i couldnt get another one. so i have to pay 10 b's for every day i stay past my visa expiration. i think it will end up being 15-20 days which is not a huge deal. of course i got all fired up and made a little scene at the desk. (just wanted to give the other tourists something entertaining while they waited in line.)
in my argument i also said something about how i was doing volunteer work and needed only 2 more weeks, trying to get some sympathy. bad choice. she went and got the jefe. because i said the word work - i was in big trouble. they stamped a bunch of stuff on my passport and said i would have to do all this paper work. i told em that i wasnt getting paid and the company didnt have any money and i was leaving in two weeks. so she gave me the passport back and i got out of there - feeling beaten and with everyone in line giggling at my display of Americanism.
plan for the weekend - ice climbing
16 days left in La Paz for those still planning a visit (like thats gonna happen)
btw - if anyone knows of good people to talk to in dc, chicago or san francisco working in the development world (ngos, microfinance, international institutions, etc.) i would love some connections. I am tryign to set up meetings in the states for when i get home to bounce some ideas around - not really looking for interviews just conversations.
Monday, April 29, 2002
In a Little Rut...
Post disappointing business news (losing the govt bid for rural Telecenters)... we have continued to pursue business/development opportunities in the Bolivian telecommunications market. Current project proposals include equipping all the schools in Bolivia with computers and Internet, teacher training in rural Bolivia through distance education utilizing the Internet and an international bid to build distance health facilities to provide training and medical care to doctors in rural Bolivia. In each project we would partner with an ngo to provide the technological solution, while the partner would provide the technical implementation. In the meantime, we continue to pursue signing up institutional clients for connectivity and investors for the funds we need to build a hub facility in La Paz.
Finally Back to a Beach - Apart from work, a couple weeks ago my visa expired so I was forced to flee Bolivia. I chose the warm climate of Arica - a beach front community in northern Chile. It was great to leave the perpetually cold weather of la paz for the sun, sand and warm salt water. While wandering aimlessly on the street looking for a place to stay - I met an eccentric older New Zealander that offered me a place to stay at his house. Ross was a bit of a character, having moved to Chile to export Vicunas to New Zealand. I guess it didnt work out too well (no surprise) as he has resorted to picking up gringos on the street and renting them rooms in his house. But he does know how to make a great breakfast. Arica was a quiet hangout as it was out of season but it was a relief to lay in the sun, get a tan and chill.
The real reason to visit Arica is for the drive west from La Paz. First of all, it is the first black pavement i have seen in the entire country. The road weaves past several snow capped peaks, including the highest mountain in Bolivia, through a national reserve and finally cuts through the desert of northern chile until reaching the coast. The drive was spectacular.
News in La Paz - moved into a new apartment with Oliver in Sopocachi (same neighborhood as the old place). The pad is sick. Two bedroom apartment with two floors on the 19th floor of one of the tallest buildings in La Paz. The outside walls of all rooms are glass from floor to ceiling revealing a view of la paz, illimani and zona sur (its sweet). Other highlights include the shower which is along the aforementioned glass wall providing the women of la paz a show twice daily and the empleada (maid) who cooks, cleans and does laundry for $30 a month.
The only other topic of relative interest would be my trip last weekend to Sorata. Sorata is a small town 5 hours north of la paz situated at the base of Cerro Illampu, a 21,000 foot snow capped peak. The base of the mountain is home to a raging whitewater river which cuts through a ravine between towering lush green peaks. The setting is somewhat like my memories of Switzerland. Driving in on Friday afternoon there were several moments of terror as the bus wobbled around hair pin turns weaving along a one lane road situated precariously on the cliff faces of the mountains of the Cordillera Real.
The visit to Sorata included a hike to San Pedro cave. The cave is fairly typical except for a large lake several hundred meters inside. It was great to kick back and swim around in the eery darkness and listen to the bats fly overhead. The trip was great with the exception of the ride home. On the bus, I had the good fortune to be sitting in the aisle seat when a charming indeginous gentleman entered the bus. He moved precisely down the aisle until he was standing just next to me. Nothing unusual about this situation until I was greeted with one of the most horrifying odors man has ever known (no exaggeration). The guy's breathe was a putrid mix of hangover breathe, stale urine and rotten milk (not like a couple days past the past due date - more like when the white seperates from the clear and coagulates at the bottom). Fortunately, for me he was a deep breather and remained in his selected position for about two hours. The experience caused a stomache/headache and required a steaming hot shower and incineration of my wardrobe. Thanks dude.
Time is short in Bolivia. I plan to be here 3 or 4 more weeks. Then I depart for Washington DC from Santiago Chile June 8th. So I will spend first week of June skiing in Chile or perhaps travel east through Bolivia, south through Argentina and then back north through Chile for the last two weeks of the trip (depends mostly on snowfall). Either way, I am back in the USA June 10th.
Finally Back to a Beach - Apart from work, a couple weeks ago my visa expired so I was forced to flee Bolivia. I chose the warm climate of Arica - a beach front community in northern Chile. It was great to leave the perpetually cold weather of la paz for the sun, sand and warm salt water. While wandering aimlessly on the street looking for a place to stay - I met an eccentric older New Zealander that offered me a place to stay at his house. Ross was a bit of a character, having moved to Chile to export Vicunas to New Zealand. I guess it didnt work out too well (no surprise) as he has resorted to picking up gringos on the street and renting them rooms in his house. But he does know how to make a great breakfast. Arica was a quiet hangout as it was out of season but it was a relief to lay in the sun, get a tan and chill.
The real reason to visit Arica is for the drive west from La Paz. First of all, it is the first black pavement i have seen in the entire country. The road weaves past several snow capped peaks, including the highest mountain in Bolivia, through a national reserve and finally cuts through the desert of northern chile until reaching the coast. The drive was spectacular.
News in La Paz - moved into a new apartment with Oliver in Sopocachi (same neighborhood as the old place). The pad is sick. Two bedroom apartment with two floors on the 19th floor of one of the tallest buildings in La Paz. The outside walls of all rooms are glass from floor to ceiling revealing a view of la paz, illimani and zona sur (its sweet). Other highlights include the shower which is along the aforementioned glass wall providing the women of la paz a show twice daily and the empleada (maid) who cooks, cleans and does laundry for $30 a month.
The only other topic of relative interest would be my trip last weekend to Sorata. Sorata is a small town 5 hours north of la paz situated at the base of Cerro Illampu, a 21,000 foot snow capped peak. The base of the mountain is home to a raging whitewater river which cuts through a ravine between towering lush green peaks. The setting is somewhat like my memories of Switzerland. Driving in on Friday afternoon there were several moments of terror as the bus wobbled around hair pin turns weaving along a one lane road situated precariously on the cliff faces of the mountains of the Cordillera Real.
The visit to Sorata included a hike to San Pedro cave. The cave is fairly typical except for a large lake several hundred meters inside. It was great to kick back and swim around in the eery darkness and listen to the bats fly overhead. The trip was great with the exception of the ride home. On the bus, I had the good fortune to be sitting in the aisle seat when a charming indeginous gentleman entered the bus. He moved precisely down the aisle until he was standing just next to me. Nothing unusual about this situation until I was greeted with one of the most horrifying odors man has ever known (no exaggeration). The guy's breathe was a putrid mix of hangover breathe, stale urine and rotten milk (not like a couple days past the past due date - more like when the white seperates from the clear and coagulates at the bottom). Fortunately, for me he was a deep breather and remained in his selected position for about two hours. The experience caused a stomache/headache and required a steaming hot shower and incineration of my wardrobe. Thanks dude.
Time is short in Bolivia. I plan to be here 3 or 4 more weeks. Then I depart for Washington DC from Santiago Chile June 8th. So I will spend first week of June skiing in Chile or perhaps travel east through Bolivia, south through Argentina and then back north through Chile for the last two weeks of the trip (depends mostly on snowfall). Either way, I am back in the USA June 10th.
Wednesday, April 17, 2002
Kick in the Pants
lost the bid by 80k... 2nd place sucks
anyone got a job they want to give me?
back in the USA June 10th
anyone got a job they want to give me?
back in the USA June 10th
Wednesday, April 10, 2002
Ayuda!
FYI - LINKS TO PICTURES OF BOLIVIA AT THE BOTTOM
Its been several weeks since the last email because my life has been more boring than usual (until this past weekend) - consisting of working (preselling telecom services to institutions) and going out in la paz and thats about it. More or less waiting for the government to announce the winner of the bid which has been postponed 5 times so far. next announcement date has been set for monday - we shall see.
so getting frustrated waiting for some type of news on the telecom project - i weasled my way into a trip to Potosi in southwestern Bolivia (situated between 11,000 and 13,000 feet - excluding peaks and bordering Argentina and Chile). The purpose of the trip was to do preliminary work on an Ecotourism proposal for the IDB (int'l dev. bank). And they need a finance guy to validate the viability/sustainability of the proposal - so there I am on a 5 day trip with Peter, Mela (his wife), Allen Robinson (tourism consultant from colorado), Anna Maria (bolivian architect), Freddy Yupa (bolivian tourism consultant), and the guides (Eberth and Rubin - both very cool).
Potosi is one of the poorest departments in Bolivia although it has a very rich silver mining history (much like the rest of bolivia - all the wealth was taken out of the region). It is also home to the largest (and highest - although everything seems to have that description in bolivia) salt lake in the world. There are also dozens of volcanoes, lakes, some ruins, etc. Also, this is an area of extremes recording 25 degrees and negative 30 degrees Celsius in one day (a world record).
The project will build hotels, restaurants, sewage and water systems, electricity, telecommuniations, transportation, etc. in communities in this region to increase tourism. It is currently very isolated and infrastructure is bleak - so only backpackers hit it. The project will include 5 or 6 sites and a ethno-historic museum in Uyuni (the starting point for seeing this region). The communities provide the materials, land, labor, etc. and receive a percentage of the gross revenues in return. The rest of the money covers operating expenses, infrastructure and goes into a pool for future tourism investment.
anyways the trip was awesome. it entailed being driven around potosi by rubin in a toyota land cruiser visiting various communities and talking to local leaders, businesses and others involved in tourism. along the way we crossed the salar de uyuni (the salt lake) several times which was very cool, passed dozens of volcanoes, saw some ruins and saw almost no human beings. a few highlights included watching a group of israeli girls take naked fotos of each other on the salar, a bit of hiking, and spotting various native animals (vicachi (similar to a rabbit), rhea (similar to a ostrich), llamas, vicunas, etc. - but no pumas). oh and we had to stop every time the light changed or a shadow moved so that allan and peter could take photos - this was very annoying.
the community meetings were an experience. we met mayors, alcaldias, townspeople, business men, artists, tourism officials, etc.. we also went to several town meetings. it was awesome to see the hope and wonder on these peoples faces as we described what we hope to accomplish for them. although personalizing the names on the map makes the urgency to get project funding much deeper and personal. but the hugs, handshakes and words of encouragement are something i will not soon forget.
and peter is an absolute hero. we were in towns of 500 people or less most of the trip and without fail he knew 3 or 4 of the people in each community and many more knew him. he has an excellent repoirte with these very simple people. so good, in fact, that he was asked to be the godfather of two children during the trip.
the most interesting 24 hours began the night we slept in the town hospital in san pedro de quemes. well it used to be a hospital but the doctor left and now it is just an empty building with beds and some old medical instruments. i was a little freaked out by the prospect of sleeping in a bed with old malaria or hepatitis germs but this was an act of kindness by the community - so there wasnt really anything we could do but accept it. (the blood on the wall next to my head didnt help)
the next morning we headed out to for the hot springs near the border with chile (about 70 kilometers). about 10 kilometers from our destination, in the middle of nowhere the jeep suddenly died. we hadnt seen a house or a person in 2.5 hours and had traversed the worst road i have seen on my trip (for those who know - much worse then the road from Coban to El Estor in Guatemala).
luckily the weather was nice, we had some food and water, and we were near the border with chile -(being near the frontier we were optimistic that there must be a military station somewhere). after several hours of 3rd world mechanics 101 and jeep pushing - a group of us set out to find help. and as luck would have it - help was less than 1 kilometer away in the form of a military station. the four soldiers were ecstatic to see us - we were a little bit of entertainment in an otherwise miserable and lonely existance for these guys. they let us use their radio and stared at me. and after a couple hours of trying we got through to san pedro and help was on the way.
unfortunately, help got lost a couple times on the horrible, winding unmarked roads. so we waited from 11am til 8pm when they finally showed up in a very small pickup (and 12 liters of beers). incidentally - the truck is the alcaldia's. so 10 of us piled in for a 3 hour ride in the dark - sitting and drinking in the back of this little truck on this shitty, dusty road with visions of hospital beds in our heads.
we all hopped out of the back of this god forsaken pickup for dinner at 11pm. we were a site for the locals - a bunch of gringos covered in dust, coughing, and miserable.
the next morning - we are informed that the only mode of transportation back to uyuni (where we have meetings and get the train to la paz) is the same truck. so after 5 of us get in back with all our luggage - the locals throw in another 4 kids for good measure - and all our luggage. goldberg is now pissed off. needless to say, this segment of the trip is filled with various problems. the highlight of which is getting stuck in the salar (when it is wet it is much like cement) and pushing the pickup out of the salt mush while getting sprayed with salt and water and generally soaked. there were many pictures of gringos stuck in paradise throughout the trip. i will try to scan some - but make no promises as i am very lazy.
much more to tell later over beers - but i just got back on an overnight train and want nothing more than to go to bed.
oh here - if interested are links to bolivia fotos since i have a crappy camera and am lazy
this is the view from my apartment in la paz:
http://volcano.und.nodak.edu/vwdocs/volc_images/south_america/bolivia/illimani.html
and links to pics of the salt lake in uyuni and other areas in potosi:
http://www.min.tu-clausthal.de/www/lager/excursion/pict_07.htm
http://www.bolivianbeauty.com/SalarDeUyuni/MainPage.htm
http://www.cinemascope.com/photos/bolivia/index.html (great slide show)
http://octobre.free.fr/photos/Altiplano_Salar_Uyuni/
Its been several weeks since the last email because my life has been more boring than usual (until this past weekend) - consisting of working (preselling telecom services to institutions) and going out in la paz and thats about it. More or less waiting for the government to announce the winner of the bid which has been postponed 5 times so far. next announcement date has been set for monday - we shall see.
so getting frustrated waiting for some type of news on the telecom project - i weasled my way into a trip to Potosi in southwestern Bolivia (situated between 11,000 and 13,000 feet - excluding peaks and bordering Argentina and Chile). The purpose of the trip was to do preliminary work on an Ecotourism proposal for the IDB (int'l dev. bank). And they need a finance guy to validate the viability/sustainability of the proposal - so there I am on a 5 day trip with Peter, Mela (his wife), Allen Robinson (tourism consultant from colorado), Anna Maria (bolivian architect), Freddy Yupa (bolivian tourism consultant), and the guides (Eberth and Rubin - both very cool).
Potosi is one of the poorest departments in Bolivia although it has a very rich silver mining history (much like the rest of bolivia - all the wealth was taken out of the region). It is also home to the largest (and highest - although everything seems to have that description in bolivia) salt lake in the world. There are also dozens of volcanoes, lakes, some ruins, etc. Also, this is an area of extremes recording 25 degrees and negative 30 degrees Celsius in one day (a world record).
The project will build hotels, restaurants, sewage and water systems, electricity, telecommuniations, transportation, etc. in communities in this region to increase tourism. It is currently very isolated and infrastructure is bleak - so only backpackers hit it. The project will include 5 or 6 sites and a ethno-historic museum in Uyuni (the starting point for seeing this region). The communities provide the materials, land, labor, etc. and receive a percentage of the gross revenues in return. The rest of the money covers operating expenses, infrastructure and goes into a pool for future tourism investment.
anyways the trip was awesome. it entailed being driven around potosi by rubin in a toyota land cruiser visiting various communities and talking to local leaders, businesses and others involved in tourism. along the way we crossed the salar de uyuni (the salt lake) several times which was very cool, passed dozens of volcanoes, saw some ruins and saw almost no human beings. a few highlights included watching a group of israeli girls take naked fotos of each other on the salar, a bit of hiking, and spotting various native animals (vicachi (similar to a rabbit), rhea (similar to a ostrich), llamas, vicunas, etc. - but no pumas). oh and we had to stop every time the light changed or a shadow moved so that allan and peter could take photos - this was very annoying.
the community meetings were an experience. we met mayors, alcaldias, townspeople, business men, artists, tourism officials, etc.. we also went to several town meetings. it was awesome to see the hope and wonder on these peoples faces as we described what we hope to accomplish for them. although personalizing the names on the map makes the urgency to get project funding much deeper and personal. but the hugs, handshakes and words of encouragement are something i will not soon forget.
and peter is an absolute hero. we were in towns of 500 people or less most of the trip and without fail he knew 3 or 4 of the people in each community and many more knew him. he has an excellent repoirte with these very simple people. so good, in fact, that he was asked to be the godfather of two children during the trip.
the most interesting 24 hours began the night we slept in the town hospital in san pedro de quemes. well it used to be a hospital but the doctor left and now it is just an empty building with beds and some old medical instruments. i was a little freaked out by the prospect of sleeping in a bed with old malaria or hepatitis germs but this was an act of kindness by the community - so there wasnt really anything we could do but accept it. (the blood on the wall next to my head didnt help)
the next morning we headed out to for the hot springs near the border with chile (about 70 kilometers). about 10 kilometers from our destination, in the middle of nowhere the jeep suddenly died. we hadnt seen a house or a person in 2.5 hours and had traversed the worst road i have seen on my trip (for those who know - much worse then the road from Coban to El Estor in Guatemala).
luckily the weather was nice, we had some food and water, and we were near the border with chile -(being near the frontier we were optimistic that there must be a military station somewhere). after several hours of 3rd world mechanics 101 and jeep pushing - a group of us set out to find help. and as luck would have it - help was less than 1 kilometer away in the form of a military station. the four soldiers were ecstatic to see us - we were a little bit of entertainment in an otherwise miserable and lonely existance for these guys. they let us use their radio and stared at me. and after a couple hours of trying we got through to san pedro and help was on the way.
unfortunately, help got lost a couple times on the horrible, winding unmarked roads. so we waited from 11am til 8pm when they finally showed up in a very small pickup (and 12 liters of beers). incidentally - the truck is the alcaldia's. so 10 of us piled in for a 3 hour ride in the dark - sitting and drinking in the back of this little truck on this shitty, dusty road with visions of hospital beds in our heads.
we all hopped out of the back of this god forsaken pickup for dinner at 11pm. we were a site for the locals - a bunch of gringos covered in dust, coughing, and miserable.
the next morning - we are informed that the only mode of transportation back to uyuni (where we have meetings and get the train to la paz) is the same truck. so after 5 of us get in back with all our luggage - the locals throw in another 4 kids for good measure - and all our luggage. goldberg is now pissed off. needless to say, this segment of the trip is filled with various problems. the highlight of which is getting stuck in the salar (when it is wet it is much like cement) and pushing the pickup out of the salt mush while getting sprayed with salt and water and generally soaked. there were many pictures of gringos stuck in paradise throughout the trip. i will try to scan some - but make no promises as i am very lazy.
much more to tell later over beers - but i just got back on an overnight train and want nothing more than to go to bed.
oh here - if interested are links to bolivia fotos since i have a crappy camera and am lazy
this is the view from my apartment in la paz:
http://volcano.und.nodak.edu/vwdocs/volc_images/south_america/bolivia/illimani.html
and links to pics of the salt lake in uyuni and other areas in potosi:
http://www.min.tu-clausthal.de/www/lager/excursion/pict_07.htm
http://www.bolivianbeauty.com/SalarDeUyuni/MainPage.htm
http://www.cinemascope.com/photos/bolivia/index.html (great slide show)
http://octobre.free.fr/photos/Altiplano_Salar_Uyuni/
Tuesday, March 12, 2002
Llama Hickey
March 6th was the second deadline for the bid, the original deadline was Feb 4th. And in customary Bolivian fashion, they postponed the date again to March 14th. (word on the street is the latest delay was because the govt feared there would not be enough participants in the bid - if that happens it could be postponed indefinitely)
While delays are not helpful for getting the business up and running it is a sweet change of pace from investment banking deadlines. For those who don't know, it is standard operating procedure in banking to set deadlines two days in advance and have meetings cancelled on one hours notice after back to back all nighters. The customary kick in the pants.
In sharp contrast. We have been provided 6 extra weeks to prepare the bid documents and finalize business relationships. And the time has been more than necessary. However, it appears that things are finally coming together and I am looking forward to finding out if we are hitting the ground running or looking for alternative financing.
In more interesting news. I failed miserably at making friends in La Paz so I recruited another gringo from San Francisco to help (the urban setting is a much tougher nut to crack than travel life on the friendship tip). A former co-worker of mine in SF put a friend of hers in touch with me in January. And I talked him into coming down. Oliver arrived March 3rd. Hanging with an American dude after a couple months tredding water in La Paz has been a welcome relief.
My housesitting gig came to an unfortunate end 8 days ago. But I got some Olympics gear and needed a break from my daughters anyway. Also, I broke the blender and melted the kettle onto the stove and put a cigarette burn in the drapes - so I needed to get out before more damage was done.
Last weekend, I introduced Oliver to the nightlife in La Paz on Friday night. We were chillin at this bar when 3 girls came up to us (of course). Turns out they work in our building and recognized us or something - at least that was their game. Two of the girls were Bolivian and one from Quebec. Anyways, long story short we were at some club dancing with these chicks when we noticed one of the Bolivian chicks was missing a canine tooth. It was hilarious at the time. So we bolted. But when we got to work on Monday morning they had already called the office. And as proper gentlemen should - we ignored the call. So they called again. They brought us breakfast on Monday morning. Unbelievable. Its good to be gringo.
Sorry for the dumb story but it was funny as hell. The rest of the weekend we spent at Peter's house at the Lake. (the bloqueos were lifted two weeks ago - thank god) It was great to get out of La Paz and chill in the beautiful setting of Lake Titicaca. Weather was sick. We didnt do a whole lot. Tried to go sailing but Felipe the caretaker is very lazy and wouldnt get the sails out for us.
And in the interesting experience category. On Saturday, I was walking in the field and got attacked by a llama (actually a vicuna - which looks like a llama). The beast charged me, tried to kick me in the face and bit my shoulder. It is pretty sweet though because it left a hickey on my shoulder. How many people have ever gotten a llama hickey? Dulce.
Then on the way back to la paz from the lake. We almost died. The road (like most roads in Bolivia) is a dirt road. There had been a lot of rain overnight on Saturday night. The road was a mud pit. We were coming down a hill when the bus lost traction and began to slide to the side. Everyone on the bus ran to the right side of the bus and there was a the unfamiliar silence of terror in the air. The driver was a hero though and some how stopped the maddness. And after another half hour of pressing through the dirt road (double rainbow on the horizon) we hit pavement and were home free.
While delays are not helpful for getting the business up and running it is a sweet change of pace from investment banking deadlines. For those who don't know, it is standard operating procedure in banking to set deadlines two days in advance and have meetings cancelled on one hours notice after back to back all nighters. The customary kick in the pants.
In sharp contrast. We have been provided 6 extra weeks to prepare the bid documents and finalize business relationships. And the time has been more than necessary. However, it appears that things are finally coming together and I am looking forward to finding out if we are hitting the ground running or looking for alternative financing.
In more interesting news. I failed miserably at making friends in La Paz so I recruited another gringo from San Francisco to help (the urban setting is a much tougher nut to crack than travel life on the friendship tip). A former co-worker of mine in SF put a friend of hers in touch with me in January. And I talked him into coming down. Oliver arrived March 3rd. Hanging with an American dude after a couple months tredding water in La Paz has been a welcome relief.
My housesitting gig came to an unfortunate end 8 days ago. But I got some Olympics gear and needed a break from my daughters anyway. Also, I broke the blender and melted the kettle onto the stove and put a cigarette burn in the drapes - so I needed to get out before more damage was done.
Last weekend, I introduced Oliver to the nightlife in La Paz on Friday night. We were chillin at this bar when 3 girls came up to us (of course). Turns out they work in our building and recognized us or something - at least that was their game. Two of the girls were Bolivian and one from Quebec. Anyways, long story short we were at some club dancing with these chicks when we noticed one of the Bolivian chicks was missing a canine tooth. It was hilarious at the time. So we bolted. But when we got to work on Monday morning they had already called the office. And as proper gentlemen should - we ignored the call. So they called again. They brought us breakfast on Monday morning. Unbelievable. Its good to be gringo.
Sorry for the dumb story but it was funny as hell. The rest of the weekend we spent at Peter's house at the Lake. (the bloqueos were lifted two weeks ago - thank god) It was great to get out of La Paz and chill in the beautiful setting of Lake Titicaca. Weather was sick. We didnt do a whole lot. Tried to go sailing but Felipe the caretaker is very lazy and wouldnt get the sails out for us.
And in the interesting experience category. On Saturday, I was walking in the field and got attacked by a llama (actually a vicuna - which looks like a llama). The beast charged me, tried to kick me in the face and bit my shoulder. It is pretty sweet though because it left a hickey on my shoulder. How many people have ever gotten a llama hickey? Dulce.
Then on the way back to la paz from the lake. We almost died. The road (like most roads in Bolivia) is a dirt road. There had been a lot of rain overnight on Saturday night. The road was a mud pit. We were coming down a hill when the bus lost traction and began to slide to the side. Everyone on the bus ran to the right side of the bus and there was a the unfamiliar silence of terror in the air. The driver was a hero though and some how stopped the maddness. And after another half hour of pressing through the dirt road (double rainbow on the horizon) we hit pavement and were home free.
Thursday, February 21, 2002
Rainy Season
this will be the most exciting email i have written yet. clearly not because of content but instead because i am composing this in the bedroom of a 15 year old bolivian. (i expect some hilarious comments from the peanut gallery). don't worry mom, I am house sitting and she is not here.
the next two weeks will be a life of comfort for me as I am taking care of an expatriot house (US embassy property) in a rich suburb of La Paz. it is a nice change of pace after 4 months of one room apartments and hotel rooms. the 4 bedroom house is complete with king size bed, enormous rooms, fully stocked fridge, freezer and cupboards, maid, cook, international tv, fireplace, bbq, etc. The owners are in the USA for the Olympics. And i have two daughters (15 and 12) and a cat to look after. The neighbor across the street is the former president's daughter who has presidential aspirations of her own.
i havent written in several weeks and in the meantime apart from settling into the work routine i have had some interesting experiences. the first of which was visiting oruru for the start of carnival. the festivities consist mostly of parades and drinking. however, the parade is only a back drop for the real festivities which include throwing water in various forms (balloons, water guns, hoses, buckets, etc.) from cars, roofs, windows, etc. at other people. this goes on regardless of day, time or location all over Bolivia. an enormous water war. i got a bit caught up in throwing water balloons. it is great fun. but gringos are probably the most popular targets (strategic regions of very attractive young women are a very close second). you quickly become acclimated (or paranoid) to keeping an eye out in all directions for the next projectile.
i also got out for a very cool hike to devil's tooth which is just on the edge of la paz. the zenith provided a beautiful view of la paz and the valley on the otherside of the mountains which surround the city.
i have experienced the challenges of being a tourist in a country without a tourist economy. made an attempt to visit the hot springs 75km south of la paz. after getting off the bus at the turn off for Ormiri it quickly became clear that it would be difficult to get the final 25km. there was not a soul to be seen anywhere (was planning on hopping a pickup or hitchhiking). but it was nice to be out in the middle of nowhere and the landscape was amazing.
i also experienced the challenges of political instability in the third world. my second trip to Peter's house at lake titicaca was forceably cancelled. the campesinos here in bolivia are unhappy with their representation in and treatment by the government. the popular form of protest is to put rocks in the road (there are very few main arteries) and stand around the area drinking (bloqueos). This actually successfully brings all transportation to a halt. it is terrible for all aspects of the economy but they have a reason to be upset by broken promises and disparities in social services, etc. the road to the lake has been blocked for a month so far and there is no resolution in site.
but the real news occurred on tuesday afternoon. although the train fire in egypt seems to be getting the headlines, there was also a terrible disaster in la paz. it is the rainy season here and during the afternoons it rains pretty much everyday. however, on tuesday half a meter of rain fell in an hour. due to its topography, the city sits in a valley in a circle of mountains, and lack of infrastructure this amount of water (the most in recorded history to fall in such a short time) created a national disaster. streets turned into torrential rivers and cars, people, homes, etc. were caught in the current. Most recent numbers i have seen are that more than 70 people were killed and hundreds remain missing. electricity, phones and water were all cut. Roads, homes, bridges, sidewalks, water mains all destroyed. The government declared its own capital a national disaster area. And it is unclear how long it will take to clean up and repair the damage. it was an experience.
that is the quick summary of the last few weeks. work is a little stressful now as we have reached the most important 2 weeks in the life of DESATEL as the govt bid is due on march 6th for the subsidy to build telecenters in rural bolivia. wish us luck.
and at long last, for those who care, here is my contact information:
work (most likely to catch me here):
phone: 591 - 2 - 244-4311
address: DESATEL S.A., Calle Jauregui, 2248, La Paz, Bolivia
home:
phone: 591 - 2 - 243-3733 (ask Mary to get me... she speaks not a word of english)
housesitting: (til march 3rd)
phone: 591 - 2 - 278-4470
the next two weeks will be a life of comfort for me as I am taking care of an expatriot house (US embassy property) in a rich suburb of La Paz. it is a nice change of pace after 4 months of one room apartments and hotel rooms. the 4 bedroom house is complete with king size bed, enormous rooms, fully stocked fridge, freezer and cupboards, maid, cook, international tv, fireplace, bbq, etc. The owners are in the USA for the Olympics. And i have two daughters (15 and 12) and a cat to look after. The neighbor across the street is the former president's daughter who has presidential aspirations of her own.
i havent written in several weeks and in the meantime apart from settling into the work routine i have had some interesting experiences. the first of which was visiting oruru for the start of carnival. the festivities consist mostly of parades and drinking. however, the parade is only a back drop for the real festivities which include throwing water in various forms (balloons, water guns, hoses, buckets, etc.) from cars, roofs, windows, etc. at other people. this goes on regardless of day, time or location all over Bolivia. an enormous water war. i got a bit caught up in throwing water balloons. it is great fun. but gringos are probably the most popular targets (strategic regions of very attractive young women are a very close second). you quickly become acclimated (or paranoid) to keeping an eye out in all directions for the next projectile.
i also got out for a very cool hike to devil's tooth which is just on the edge of la paz. the zenith provided a beautiful view of la paz and the valley on the otherside of the mountains which surround the city.
i have experienced the challenges of being a tourist in a country without a tourist economy. made an attempt to visit the hot springs 75km south of la paz. after getting off the bus at the turn off for Ormiri it quickly became clear that it would be difficult to get the final 25km. there was not a soul to be seen anywhere (was planning on hopping a pickup or hitchhiking). but it was nice to be out in the middle of nowhere and the landscape was amazing.
i also experienced the challenges of political instability in the third world. my second trip to Peter's house at lake titicaca was forceably cancelled. the campesinos here in bolivia are unhappy with their representation in and treatment by the government. the popular form of protest is to put rocks in the road (there are very few main arteries) and stand around the area drinking (bloqueos). This actually successfully brings all transportation to a halt. it is terrible for all aspects of the economy but they have a reason to be upset by broken promises and disparities in social services, etc. the road to the lake has been blocked for a month so far and there is no resolution in site.
but the real news occurred on tuesday afternoon. although the train fire in egypt seems to be getting the headlines, there was also a terrible disaster in la paz. it is the rainy season here and during the afternoons it rains pretty much everyday. however, on tuesday half a meter of rain fell in an hour. due to its topography, the city sits in a valley in a circle of mountains, and lack of infrastructure this amount of water (the most in recorded history to fall in such a short time) created a national disaster. streets turned into torrential rivers and cars, people, homes, etc. were caught in the current. Most recent numbers i have seen are that more than 70 people were killed and hundreds remain missing. electricity, phones and water were all cut. Roads, homes, bridges, sidewalks, water mains all destroyed. The government declared its own capital a national disaster area. And it is unclear how long it will take to clean up and repair the damage. it was an experience.
that is the quick summary of the last few weeks. work is a little stressful now as we have reached the most important 2 weeks in the life of DESATEL as the govt bid is due on march 6th for the subsidy to build telecenters in rural bolivia. wish us luck.
and at long last, for those who care, here is my contact information:
work (most likely to catch me here):
phone: 591 - 2 - 244-4311
address: DESATEL S.A., Calle Jauregui, 2248, La Paz, Bolivia
home:
phone: 591 - 2 - 243-3733 (ask Mary to get me... she speaks not a word of english)
housesitting: (til march 3rd)
phone: 591 - 2 - 278-4470
Monday, January 28, 2002
Working in the 3rd World
ok... so when you are trying to set up modern
communications infrastructure in the third world it
would be helpeful if you worked in an office where the
internet actually worked. but that is not to be.
suffering with about 25-30% downtown, I have spent my
first two weeks reading hundreds of pages and
attending meetings all over la paz in an effort to get
myself educated on the development world and satellite
technology and getting this venture organized, planned
and funded. working hard.
in the meantime... i have also slowly begun to
experience some of what bolivia has to offer. last
week was the alasitas celebration. this is a time of
year when a big market opens (near peter's children
musuem) in la paz full of miniature everything.
Bolivians are highly superstituous and believe that
whatever they buy they will get that year. so if you
want a man, you buy a hen, if you want a chick you buy
a miniature girl, a car a little car, etc. i just
bought a bag of 20 churros and tried to eat them as
fast as i could and ended up with a stomach ache.
i did get out of the office enough to sample a little
bolivian nightlife. the neighborhood where i live and
work (sopocachi) is one of the trendy areas to hangout
in. which means the nightlife is pretty good
actually... very european/western clubs and bars in my
neighborhood. almost a little too western -
drinks are really expensive (the same as two dinners).
on saturday my crazy house mother had a dinner party
for the 4 of us living in the back because one of my
weird roommates is leaving. despite my assumption
that it would be painful - it was highly entertaining.
good food, good wine. and mary (the house mom)
forcing me to eat everything on the table and
challenging me to a game of basketball (she is 70+).
i might win.
on sunday, peter took me to his lake house. it is a
pretty simple house on lake titicaca but the view is
incredible, they have a sail boat, a canoe and some
horses, llamas, a pottery studio, etc. It was nice to
be out of la paz for an afternoon.
through peter, i have continued to meet various
interesting people... this weekend the cultural
attache from the usa was at the lake house and i took
his 6 year old son out on a canoe. the little brat
had a good old time trying to tip the boat, grabbing
long lake grass so we couldnt move, etc. but i got
browny points with the attaches wife for it. this
week i may meet the ambassador. his daughter wants to
go to uva and i am gonna do the pitch.
so needless to say life is still very interesting...
carnival starts on the 9th here in a town called
oruru. peter is gonna give me a press pass and a
camera so i can run around up there like an AP dude.
i will try to interview as many 18-20 year olds as
possible - apparently people respect the press here
unlike in the usa. also i now have a free pass to use
the lake house when i have free time and felipe (the
housekeeper at the lake) is gonna teach me how to
sail.
communications infrastructure in the third world it
would be helpeful if you worked in an office where the
internet actually worked. but that is not to be.
suffering with about 25-30% downtown, I have spent my
first two weeks reading hundreds of pages and
attending meetings all over la paz in an effort to get
myself educated on the development world and satellite
technology and getting this venture organized, planned
and funded. working hard.
in the meantime... i have also slowly begun to
experience some of what bolivia has to offer. last
week was the alasitas celebration. this is a time of
year when a big market opens (near peter's children
musuem) in la paz full of miniature everything.
Bolivians are highly superstituous and believe that
whatever they buy they will get that year. so if you
want a man, you buy a hen, if you want a chick you buy
a miniature girl, a car a little car, etc. i just
bought a bag of 20 churros and tried to eat them as
fast as i could and ended up with a stomach ache.
i did get out of the office enough to sample a little
bolivian nightlife. the neighborhood where i live and
work (sopocachi) is one of the trendy areas to hangout
in. which means the nightlife is pretty good
actually... very european/western clubs and bars in my
neighborhood. almost a little too western -
drinks are really expensive (the same as two dinners).
on saturday my crazy house mother had a dinner party
for the 4 of us living in the back because one of my
weird roommates is leaving. despite my assumption
that it would be painful - it was highly entertaining.
good food, good wine. and mary (the house mom)
forcing me to eat everything on the table and
challenging me to a game of basketball (she is 70+).
i might win.
on sunday, peter took me to his lake house. it is a
pretty simple house on lake titicaca but the view is
incredible, they have a sail boat, a canoe and some
horses, llamas, a pottery studio, etc. It was nice to
be out of la paz for an afternoon.
through peter, i have continued to meet various
interesting people... this weekend the cultural
attache from the usa was at the lake house and i took
his 6 year old son out on a canoe. the little brat
had a good old time trying to tip the boat, grabbing
long lake grass so we couldnt move, etc. but i got
browny points with the attaches wife for it. this
week i may meet the ambassador. his daughter wants to
go to uva and i am gonna do the pitch.
so needless to say life is still very interesting...
carnival starts on the 9th here in a town called
oruru. peter is gonna give me a press pass and a
camera so i can run around up there like an AP dude.
i will try to interview as many 18-20 year olds as
possible - apparently people respect the press here
unlike in the usa. also i now have a free pass to use
the lake house when i have free time and felipe (the
housekeeper at the lake) is gonna teach me how to
sail.
Thursday, January 17, 2002
It's On
At long last, Friday
night I hopped on an overnight bus and headed for the
border to enter my new home for the next few months.
Mid morning on Saturday we arrived at Copacabana,
Bolivia on Lake Titicaca (3300m). It is a touristy
border spot near the Isla de Sol (famous site of the
Incan creation legend). I also learned the root of
the name Titicaca so now I can't giggle to myself as
easily when I hear it.
After a short break in Copacabana, I got in another
bus for La Paz (the highest capital in the world
4000m). From Copacabana we crossed a bit of the Lake
in a Lancha (so did the entire bus) and crossed into
some of the most beautiful terrain (rolling green
hills and snow capped mountains) I have seen on my
trip (maybe I was a little sentimental since this is
my new home).
We crossed the western section of Bolivia for about 2
hours and saw not a single town. These tedious hours
were followed by a moment I will never forget. After
turning around another of the many bends while coming
up a mountain, the obstructions fell away and La Paz
was finally revealed to me. I had know idea what to
expect and it completely blew me away. It is a huge
city nestled in a valley encircled by enormous snow
capped mountains. I was shocked by what I saw. Words
do not do this moment justice. But I think I shared a
moment with the Peruvian guy next to me (Franco)...
please no comments.
Also, I started work on Monday. And I finally met my
boss in person. Previously we had traded a handful of
emails, a business plan, and two 5 minute phone
conversations. I had no idea what I would really be
doing day to day and no idea what to expect out of
him. And so here is a brief synopsis first of his
career (which will definitely leave pieces out) and
then the job.
Peter McFarren, my boss, is a writer, artist,
photographer, businessman, board member, publisher,
builder, philanthropist, entrepreneur. Some of the
things he has done include writing for the AP for 18
years, starting a newspaper, starting a publishing
company, writing books, publishing his photography,
exhibiting his ceramics in museums, he found a nazi
war criminal in Bolivia (who is now in jail in
Europe), was kicked out of the country in the 80s, had
his tv cooking show declared a threat to national
security and cancelled, opened two childrens museums,
built the 10 story office building I am sitting in
right now, started a cultural and educational
foundation called Quipus, started a Cisco training
academy and more.
Despite his many achievements, he rents his home in La
Paz, takes only a salary, owns his own automobile (not
a foundation car - which is unusual) and is still
connected with his activist roots. His wife is in the
office everyday, as is his sister-in-law. Also, he
has two children and his two sisters help run his
museums.
Now the job... there are many people in the office
working on various different projects. Peter and I
are the employees of a new company called DESATEL. We
are currently working on a proposal to win a
government subsidy to build 79 Telecenters across
Bolivia. A telecenter is a place people can use the
phone and internet. There is very little
infrastructure in rural Bolivia and this program is
intended to provide new educational, health, economic,
etc. opportunities to places that have no access to
such things right now.
In preparing the bid, we are choosing technologies and
lining up companies to provide the satellite and fiber
connectivity, communications hub and gateways, VSATs
(dishes to send and receive communications signals
there is no wireline infrastructure in these places),
computers, IP phones, etc. right now. Also, we are
lining up financing which will likely include a
European grant, funds from CARE Bolivia, Quipus and
University Nur, some micro finance funds and more. In
addition, I will be drafting the organization and
management structure, operating plan, budgets,
training and management procedures, reporting
procedures, and much more for the company assuming we
win the bid. There is a ton of work to do but it is
very interesting. And despite not even having the bid
yet... Peter is talking about building 300 more
Telecenters.
I have been to 2 or 3 meetings a day and met a handful
of CEOs, leaders of various NGOs, and other people
(everyone in this country knows Peter). I have been
to all the meetings in jeans and tennis shoes speaking
broken spanish, while surrounded by native spanish
speakers in suits. Also, I have been to lunch each
day with Peter, his wife, her sister (a very
flirtatious divorcee) and various other people
(including a nun).
What else... oh I found a place to live. The
apartment is furnished with some gnarly old furniture
but it will be fine. It is 8 blocks from work in a
cool neighborhood. It has a beautiful view and I will
have four housemates (all extranjeros). In addition
to the 5 bedrooms, it has cable, a kitchen/dining
room, two bathrooms, a living room, a hot water
heater, and gets cleaned every other week for $150 a
month. I havent met any of the roommates yet I will
report on this next week. I just got the place today.
Oh... and Peter felt sorry for me and found me $500
bucks a month for food and lodging. So I am now
making money again! A juicy 4 figure salary.
night I hopped on an overnight bus and headed for the
border to enter my new home for the next few months.
Mid morning on Saturday we arrived at Copacabana,
Bolivia on Lake Titicaca (3300m). It is a touristy
border spot near the Isla de Sol (famous site of the
Incan creation legend). I also learned the root of
the name Titicaca so now I can't giggle to myself as
easily when I hear it.
After a short break in Copacabana, I got in another
bus for La Paz (the highest capital in the world
4000m). From Copacabana we crossed a bit of the Lake
in a Lancha (so did the entire bus) and crossed into
some of the most beautiful terrain (rolling green
hills and snow capped mountains) I have seen on my
trip (maybe I was a little sentimental since this is
my new home).
We crossed the western section of Bolivia for about 2
hours and saw not a single town. These tedious hours
were followed by a moment I will never forget. After
turning around another of the many bends while coming
up a mountain, the obstructions fell away and La Paz
was finally revealed to me. I had know idea what to
expect and it completely blew me away. It is a huge
city nestled in a valley encircled by enormous snow
capped mountains. I was shocked by what I saw. Words
do not do this moment justice. But I think I shared a
moment with the Peruvian guy next to me (Franco)...
please no comments.
Also, I started work on Monday. And I finally met my
boss in person. Previously we had traded a handful of
emails, a business plan, and two 5 minute phone
conversations. I had no idea what I would really be
doing day to day and no idea what to expect out of
him. And so here is a brief synopsis first of his
career (which will definitely leave pieces out) and
then the job.
Peter McFarren, my boss, is a writer, artist,
photographer, businessman, board member, publisher,
builder, philanthropist, entrepreneur. Some of the
things he has done include writing for the AP for 18
years, starting a newspaper, starting a publishing
company, writing books, publishing his photography,
exhibiting his ceramics in museums, he found a nazi
war criminal in Bolivia (who is now in jail in
Europe), was kicked out of the country in the 80s, had
his tv cooking show declared a threat to national
security and cancelled, opened two childrens museums,
built the 10 story office building I am sitting in
right now, started a cultural and educational
foundation called Quipus, started a Cisco training
academy and more.
Despite his many achievements, he rents his home in La
Paz, takes only a salary, owns his own automobile (not
a foundation car - which is unusual) and is still
connected with his activist roots. His wife is in the
office everyday, as is his sister-in-law. Also, he
has two children and his two sisters help run his
museums.
Now the job... there are many people in the office
working on various different projects. Peter and I
are the employees of a new company called DESATEL. We
are currently working on a proposal to win a
government subsidy to build 79 Telecenters across
Bolivia. A telecenter is a place people can use the
phone and internet. There is very little
infrastructure in rural Bolivia and this program is
intended to provide new educational, health, economic,
etc. opportunities to places that have no access to
such things right now.
In preparing the bid, we are choosing technologies and
lining up companies to provide the satellite and fiber
connectivity, communications hub and gateways, VSATs
(dishes to send and receive communications signals
there is no wireline infrastructure in these places),
computers, IP phones, etc. right now. Also, we are
lining up financing which will likely include a
European grant, funds from CARE Bolivia, Quipus and
University Nur, some micro finance funds and more. In
addition, I will be drafting the organization and
management structure, operating plan, budgets,
training and management procedures, reporting
procedures, and much more for the company assuming we
win the bid. There is a ton of work to do but it is
very interesting. And despite not even having the bid
yet... Peter is talking about building 300 more
Telecenters.
I have been to 2 or 3 meetings a day and met a handful
of CEOs, leaders of various NGOs, and other people
(everyone in this country knows Peter). I have been
to all the meetings in jeans and tennis shoes speaking
broken spanish, while surrounded by native spanish
speakers in suits. Also, I have been to lunch each
day with Peter, his wife, her sister (a very
flirtatious divorcee) and various other people
(including a nun).
What else... oh I found a place to live. The
apartment is furnished with some gnarly old furniture
but it will be fine. It is 8 blocks from work in a
cool neighborhood. It has a beautiful view and I will
have four housemates (all extranjeros). In addition
to the 5 bedrooms, it has cable, a kitchen/dining
room, two bathrooms, a living room, a hot water
heater, and gets cleaned every other week for $150 a
month. I havent met any of the roommates yet I will
report on this next week. I just got the place today.
Oh... and Peter felt sorry for me and found me $500
bucks a month for food and lodging. So I am now
making money again! A juicy 4 figure salary.
Thursday, January 10, 2002
Land of the Llamas
Well as luck would have it I am wrapping up the libre part of my trip here in Peru this week. Next Monday I jump back into the real world, sort of, and hopefully start work in La Paz, Bolivia. Although, as of right now, I havent heard from my boss in more than 2 weeks.
My last week has been eventful and hopefully the following stories will provide some entertainment. I spent one day in Panama City, Panama with the intention of seeing the Panama canal. As the educated traveller, I informed my cab driver to take me to the Old Town area. Well, it is completely shut down... they are redoing the whole area. Seeing as I had no guide for Panama I was immediately operating from a position of weakness. But the taxi driver was cool and hooked me up with a good hotel, I think. Then my luck got even better... a torrential down pour started while on the way to the hotel. So instead of the canal I saw the inside of my hotel room (it was a nice room with cable) and the restaurant in the lobby.
The following morning I left for Peru. Upon arriving in Lima, the first thing I witnessed was the squalor of the slums just outside the airport. Not really sure what the most telling characteristic of these slums was... perhaps the lack of roofs on homes. I mean that is pretty basic I thought.
Anyways, I was quickly wisked in my cab to the comforts of the tourist section of Lima. The city is a beautiful colonial setting on the Pacific Coast and amazingly clean for its size. I was very impressed with the downtown area. I was also shocked by the confidence of Peruvian women. In my first few hours in Peru I was approached by a handful of women. And one of them was a very cute girl of maybe 19 years. This may explain my positive impression of Lima. Actually, one of the best parts of my time in Lima was the wicked bowl of Sebiche that I got. The other highlights were the catacombs full of human remains (San Francisco) and the torture devices (Musem of the Inquisition).
From Lima (sea level), I headed up to Cusco (3300 meters)- tourist mecca. The trip looks to be 600 kilometers on a map... however, the Andes get in the way. I left at 9pm Saturday night and arrived 6am Monday morning... if your counting, and I was, that is about about 33 hours i think. The trip was made all the more interesting by my first police interaction.
Someone hoisted my bag from the overhead compartment when I foolishly fell asleep on the first 17 hour bus. Silly me. The police were quick to point out how dumb that was before telling me that since it was Sunday there was nothing they could do and to continue on to Cusco. Of course, when I arrived in Cusco the police indicated that the only logical thing to do was to head back to Arequipa (the intermediate stop 14 hours away) and file a report there. After a couple more meetings at the police station I finally got a report filed. The big turning point in the investigation was when I met with the jefe. Picture me sitting across from a guy in full military dress, me wearing blue drabbing shorts, flip flops, a t-shirt with a beer glass on it and my hat on backwards. Another classic moment at the police station was trying to get an officer to help me while he was busy playing Pac Man.
After the aggrevation of being robbed and dealing with Latin police, I was about ready to give up on Peru and just head to La Paz. But luckily I realized just how stupid that would be. So I hit the town and saw the sites of Cusco. Cusco is immaculate. Very clean. It is also a very colonial city in appearance. And I am quickly realizing that Peru has had a lot wealthier history than Guatemala as exhibited in its churches, museums, roads, etc.
On Wednesday morning, having learned nothing from getting robbed, I headed out by myself and hiked into the Sacred Valley north of Cusco. There are four Incan ruins with in 6 miles of Cusco. It was exactly what I needed to reset my anxiety. The Sacred Valley sits in between the lush green mountain tops of the Andes. The hike was breathtaking (yep - i am still using that word).
This morning I hopped on a train and headed for the #1 attraction in Peru, Machu Piccu. Amazingly situated in the midst of the peaks of the Andes. This is a site that everyone should go see. It is awesome.
My last week has been eventful and hopefully the following stories will provide some entertainment. I spent one day in Panama City, Panama with the intention of seeing the Panama canal. As the educated traveller, I informed my cab driver to take me to the Old Town area. Well, it is completely shut down... they are redoing the whole area. Seeing as I had no guide for Panama I was immediately operating from a position of weakness. But the taxi driver was cool and hooked me up with a good hotel, I think. Then my luck got even better... a torrential down pour started while on the way to the hotel. So instead of the canal I saw the inside of my hotel room (it was a nice room with cable) and the restaurant in the lobby.
The following morning I left for Peru. Upon arriving in Lima, the first thing I witnessed was the squalor of the slums just outside the airport. Not really sure what the most telling characteristic of these slums was... perhaps the lack of roofs on homes. I mean that is pretty basic I thought.
Anyways, I was quickly wisked in my cab to the comforts of the tourist section of Lima. The city is a beautiful colonial setting on the Pacific Coast and amazingly clean for its size. I was very impressed with the downtown area. I was also shocked by the confidence of Peruvian women. In my first few hours in Peru I was approached by a handful of women. And one of them was a very cute girl of maybe 19 years. This may explain my positive impression of Lima. Actually, one of the best parts of my time in Lima was the wicked bowl of Sebiche that I got. The other highlights were the catacombs full of human remains (San Francisco) and the torture devices (Musem of the Inquisition).
From Lima (sea level), I headed up to Cusco (3300 meters)- tourist mecca. The trip looks to be 600 kilometers on a map... however, the Andes get in the way. I left at 9pm Saturday night and arrived 6am Monday morning... if your counting, and I was, that is about about 33 hours i think. The trip was made all the more interesting by my first police interaction.
Someone hoisted my bag from the overhead compartment when I foolishly fell asleep on the first 17 hour bus. Silly me. The police were quick to point out how dumb that was before telling me that since it was Sunday there was nothing they could do and to continue on to Cusco. Of course, when I arrived in Cusco the police indicated that the only logical thing to do was to head back to Arequipa (the intermediate stop 14 hours away) and file a report there. After a couple more meetings at the police station I finally got a report filed. The big turning point in the investigation was when I met with the jefe. Picture me sitting across from a guy in full military dress, me wearing blue drabbing shorts, flip flops, a t-shirt with a beer glass on it and my hat on backwards. Another classic moment at the police station was trying to get an officer to help me while he was busy playing Pac Man.
After the aggrevation of being robbed and dealing with Latin police, I was about ready to give up on Peru and just head to La Paz. But luckily I realized just how stupid that would be. So I hit the town and saw the sites of Cusco. Cusco is immaculate. Very clean. It is also a very colonial city in appearance. And I am quickly realizing that Peru has had a lot wealthier history than Guatemala as exhibited in its churches, museums, roads, etc.
On Wednesday morning, having learned nothing from getting robbed, I headed out by myself and hiked into the Sacred Valley north of Cusco. There are four Incan ruins with in 6 miles of Cusco. It was exactly what I needed to reset my anxiety. The Sacred Valley sits in between the lush green mountain tops of the Andes. The hike was breathtaking (yep - i am still using that word).
This morning I hopped on a train and headed for the #1 attraction in Peru, Machu Piccu. Amazingly situated in the midst of the peaks of the Andes. This is a site that everyone should go see. It is awesome.
Thursday, January 03, 2002
Salida
So after 3 months, the first part of my trip has ended... I left Guatemala this morning and flew to Panama. It was really hard to say goodbye to some really cool people and a country that I grew to love wondering if I will ever see either again. And tomorrow morning I will land in Peru and start from scratch again in South America.
New years and my last 10 days in San Pedro were really awesome but I dont really have any new experiences or stories to share with you so instead on the plane this morning I compiled two short lists of things I learned during my 3 months in Guatemala for your reading pleasure. A lot of these things may seem obvious on first glance. I am not sure if that is because I was really dumb when I got here or if I found a much deeper appreciation for some of these things through new experiences.
Things I Learned in Guatemala (in no particular order)-
You can live with just 4 shirts, some boxers, socks and pants for a very long time.
Toilet seats are optional... let's just sit on the rim.
There are a lot of really cool people all over the world;
There are a lot of really annoying people all over the world.
Some of the most interesting people are the ones that know a ton of stuff about things you know nothing about.
A cheap hotel can cost less than 2 dollars a night... all you need is a bed (and having a sheet on it is helpful).
School buses can fit over 90 people safely and minivans can fit over 20.
The internet isnt everywhere yet; many people have no idea what it is.
Some people are very, very poor.
Alcohol is a really big problem in some places.
Not all of Latin America has better soccer than the USA.
Hammocks are highly underrated.
There is no set time for getting up or going to sleep. But waking up near when the sun rises dramatically changes the length of the day.
Strangers are only 5 minutes from being friends and a couple days or a shared life experience from being good friends.
Some people worker a lot hard than I do, are a lot smarter than I am and much more openminded..
The USA is not the only place to live in the world, but living in the USA is damn comfortable.
Having a relaxed meal with your closest friends or family is a gift.
Corruption is a terrible thing and a scourge to the development of countries in the world.
Trash and other pollution is horrible in some places.
Being polite and patient can go a long way.
Most strangers are more than willing to help.
Taking a year off before you go to college to do volunteer work or travel may be a very good idea; taking a year off to travel or do volunteer
work anytime is a luxury that everyone should consider pursuing if they have the means.
I can be very happy not working.
There are a lot of places in the world that it does not take a lot of money to be comfortable for a long time. (thank god for the US$)
It does not take a lot of material posessions to be happy.
Having enough money for food, home, health and travel is a beautiful thing.
Being hastled by the police for the color of your skin is really upsetting.
Some little kids can actually be pretty cute and damn funny.
Race, sex and class differences are prevalent in other countries also and in really dispicable ways.
There are many countries in the world offering fascinating experiences that you may have never heard of or imagined.
You are probably not as openminded as you think you are.
What I Learned Reading in Guatemala -
From Shogun I learned about Japanese (and some European) culture and the colonial ambitions of Spain, Portugal and Northern Europe in the Far East in the 17th Century.
From the Atlantis Blueprint, I learned there is a lot the world does not yet know about its ancient history, the development of modern civilization and the forces of the universe on our planet. And Antartica may have been inhabited in the distant past.
The Unbearable Likeness of Being taught me that some people have some more serious relationship issues than me and that I can appreciate really good fiction.
The Watchers taught me that good writing cant hide a miserable plot and that I am not creative enough for some fiction.
Enders Game confirmed that I dont like science fiction.
In the Heart of the Sea taught me about whaling in the 17th and 18th Centuries and the interminable will of man.
The Elegant Universe confirmed that I am not very smart and that there will always be somethings in the world that I cannot understand. Physicist are amazing and so is the universe and its origens.
The Sun Also Rises reminded me of fun times in Spain last summer and taught me that I wont like all the classics.
And right now, The Source is teaching me about the Middle East, Judaism, Christianity and Islam from 9000 BC to 1974.
And Atlas Shrugged, is waiting in my bag to reacquaint me with conservative philosophies in the face of all the liberal influences I have been around the last 3 months. Recommendations are encouraged.
Thats it. Next time news from Peru.
New years and my last 10 days in San Pedro were really awesome but I dont really have any new experiences or stories to share with you so instead on the plane this morning I compiled two short lists of things I learned during my 3 months in Guatemala for your reading pleasure. A lot of these things may seem obvious on first glance. I am not sure if that is because I was really dumb when I got here or if I found a much deeper appreciation for some of these things through new experiences.
Things I Learned in Guatemala (in no particular order)-
You can live with just 4 shirts, some boxers, socks and pants for a very long time.
Toilet seats are optional... let's just sit on the rim.
There are a lot of really cool people all over the world;
There are a lot of really annoying people all over the world.
Some of the most interesting people are the ones that know a ton of stuff about things you know nothing about.
A cheap hotel can cost less than 2 dollars a night... all you need is a bed (and having a sheet on it is helpful).
School buses can fit over 90 people safely and minivans can fit over 20.
The internet isnt everywhere yet; many people have no idea what it is.
Some people are very, very poor.
Alcohol is a really big problem in some places.
Not all of Latin America has better soccer than the USA.
Hammocks are highly underrated.
There is no set time for getting up or going to sleep. But waking up near when the sun rises dramatically changes the length of the day.
Strangers are only 5 minutes from being friends and a couple days or a shared life experience from being good friends.
Some people worker a lot hard than I do, are a lot smarter than I am and much more openminded..
The USA is not the only place to live in the world, but living in the USA is damn comfortable.
Having a relaxed meal with your closest friends or family is a gift.
Corruption is a terrible thing and a scourge to the development of countries in the world.
Trash and other pollution is horrible in some places.
Being polite and patient can go a long way.
Most strangers are more than willing to help.
Taking a year off before you go to college to do volunteer work or travel may be a very good idea; taking a year off to travel or do volunteer
work anytime is a luxury that everyone should consider pursuing if they have the means.
I can be very happy not working.
There are a lot of places in the world that it does not take a lot of money to be comfortable for a long time. (thank god for the US$)
It does not take a lot of material posessions to be happy.
Having enough money for food, home, health and travel is a beautiful thing.
Being hastled by the police for the color of your skin is really upsetting.
Some little kids can actually be pretty cute and damn funny.
Race, sex and class differences are prevalent in other countries also and in really dispicable ways.
There are many countries in the world offering fascinating experiences that you may have never heard of or imagined.
You are probably not as openminded as you think you are.
What I Learned Reading in Guatemala -
From Shogun I learned about Japanese (and some European) culture and the colonial ambitions of Spain, Portugal and Northern Europe in the Far East in the 17th Century.
From the Atlantis Blueprint, I learned there is a lot the world does not yet know about its ancient history, the development of modern civilization and the forces of the universe on our planet. And Antartica may have been inhabited in the distant past.
The Unbearable Likeness of Being taught me that some people have some more serious relationship issues than me and that I can appreciate really good fiction.
The Watchers taught me that good writing cant hide a miserable plot and that I am not creative enough for some fiction.
Enders Game confirmed that I dont like science fiction.
In the Heart of the Sea taught me about whaling in the 17th and 18th Centuries and the interminable will of man.
The Elegant Universe confirmed that I am not very smart and that there will always be somethings in the world that I cannot understand. Physicist are amazing and so is the universe and its origens.
The Sun Also Rises reminded me of fun times in Spain last summer and taught me that I wont like all the classics.
And right now, The Source is teaching me about the Middle East, Judaism, Christianity and Islam from 9000 BC to 1974.
And Atlas Shrugged, is waiting in my bag to reacquaint me with conservative philosophies in the face of all the liberal influences I have been around the last 3 months. Recommendations are encouraged.
Thats it. Next time news from Peru.
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