Climbing Season is Here

Hi,

May has arrived in Bolivia with tremendous snow conditions and a bit of luck. Taking advantage of both - I have some stories with pics below.

Huayna Potosi -

The first weekend of May - Brian (B-real), Jorge (from Spain), and I headed out of LP just after 2pm for my second attempt on Huayna Potosi (you may remember the previous one last june). Departing 10 hours earlier than the previous assent, we had time to clear the rock field and camp at the edge of the glacier instead of tackling it in one climb.

Setting up camp - the tempature dropped quickly as the sunset and a fierce wind picked up. I spent the 7 hours between dark and our departure at 2:30am huddled in my sleeping bag listening to the fierce wind whipping my tent. It was not prime sleeping weather.

Leaving at 2:30am under a moonless sky it seemed as though every star in the universe was present. Headlamp batteries all died, and we had to rely on Brian's good memory to keep on the path. We climbed the first ice wall in the dark and made it to the base of the summit wall just after 6am. Relieved to be there early instead of late and feeling strong, we headed up the final wall. With about 10 meters left, hands and feet freezing the welcome glow of the sun appeared over my shoulder on the ice wall in front of me.

The tempature quickly rocketed upwards from -10 C as we savored the sunrise at 6,088m. The descent was quick and uneventful - overall we reduced the total climb from the 14-16 hour stressful experience last june to a more relaxed and enjoyable 9 hour round trip.

Jankho Huyo / Jankho Pista

After two weeks at 3,600m, the itch to ascend returned and Brian, Jorge, Sean and I made plans to travel to a valley north of Peñas (1.5 hours weest of LP) to attempt two peaks - Jankho Huyo (5512) and Jankho Pista (5508).

Waking to a storm front over La Paz, conditions were in question but of course we headed out anyway. Luckily for us, the weather cleared in the afternoon. The drive to the glacier took us past two enormous lakes - one the color of emerald green - and snowcapped peaks. This valley alone was worth the trip.

We set up camp and huddled in our tents for a much more restful sleep than the prior experience on Huayna two weeks earlier . Beginning the ascent at 4am - the weather was much warmer than on HP and our path was lit by a brilliant full moon.

In typical fashion - we were short some supplies. I forgot my carbiner and Sean forgot his caribener and his harness. Jorge and Brian rigged Sean a make shift solution and we headed up to the peak.

Arriving atop Jankho Huyo just after sunrise was a much easier trip. No ice walls to climb - more of a stroll across the glacier. From the summit, we had a brilliant view of the Cordillera Range - this summit is situated in the middle of the range with dozens of peaks in view (as well as the Yungas and Lake Titicaca). We also had a view of the upcoming traverse and second summit for the day - Jankho Pista - on the other side.

Climbing down the steep backside of Jankho Huyo we got to use the axes. Then we began traversing the narrow glacial peak and approached a rock formation jutting out of the mountain/glacier. With doubt pumping thru my veins, I watched Brian begin to rock climb in crampons this narrow rock wall with sheer cliffs on either side. A very experienced rock climber - Brian slipped on his second step and that was enough for me.

Bowing out of the pursuit of the second peak, I had some fun climbing the steep back wall of the Jankho Huyo summit where Sean was already waiting. From our perch, we watched Jorge and Brian conquer the rocky traverse and summit Jankho Pista. It was brilliant climbing and amazing to watch in person.

We also watched as enormous billowing clouds appeared out of nowhere over the lake, and several peaks. Storm fronts were approaching from all directions. Returning to camp just before noon - we were safely off the mountain before any storms hit. We were lucky to slip in an amazing climb between both weather fronts (sat am and sun pm).

DESATEL

On the work front, we took a giant step forward in April and May with productive discussions with potential investors and technology partners. We shook hands on our first non-founder investment at the end of last week and are negotiating with 5 additional parties to round out the financing now. The cash investment means, not only will I get paid for back salary since February, but there are also funds available to begin services. It is amazing feeling to be one giant step closer to realizing the goal set a year and half ago, especially after so much hard work and frustration.

Huayna Potosi Pics - May 3-4

http://www.shutterfly.com/osi.jsp?i=67b0de21b33ffe95c4e3

Jankho Huyo Pics - May 17-18

http://www.shutterfly.com/osi.jsp?i=67b0de21b33ffef5c483

I hope this email finds everyone well. Happy birthday Claire.

Chau,
Nick